Buyers Guide to Choosing Rockshoes
With over 70 different styles of men’s, women’s and kid’s rockshoes available across our physical and online shops, choosing the right pair of rock shoes can be a daunting prospect!
The key to buying amazing climbing footwear, is to come into the shops, chat with our friendly, experienced staff and take the time to try on lots of different types. Regardless of whether you are a beginner or experienced climber rock shoes are close fitting and made very differently to normal shoes, so a precision fit is really important to enjoying your climbing.
We stock adult rock shoes
from size UK2 (EU 35) to UK 14.5 (EU 50)
and children’s sizes from UK jnr 10.
Photo: La Sportiva
Why do I need rockshoes?
Good footwork is fundamental to climbing and poor shoes can hinder your development. If you are keen to get into your climbing then a foot hugging shoe with rubber designed to maximise adhesion to the rock is going to make it a lot more fun. However, the first six words of this paragraph are possibly THE most important part of rock climbing. Indoors and out.
What is the difference between a rockshoe, a rockboot and a climbing slipper?
These three terms all apply to the different types of specialist rock climbing footwear we sell. A rockshoe is the general term we use for a low cut, lace up shoe. A rockboot is much the same thing but cut higher around the heel to offer more protection and support. A climbing slipper is usually the term given to a super soft Velcro or elastic closured shoe which is close fitting easy to get on and off.
Why are there so many different types of rock shoe to choose from?
There are so many different grades, climbing styles and rock types that shoes have been designed to be specific almost like tools and you need different tools for different jobs. For example: someone who climbs slabby gritstone will require different types of support and flex in their shoe than someone who climbs predominantly on steep pocketed limestone. There is also a big difference in the comfort required in a shoe that you may be wearing all day on a multi-pitch route and a shoe you want to balance on teensy weensy climbing wall holds in short bouldering bursts. Shoes are made to offer different fits, different levels of support and offer very different shapes to encourage your weight to be concentrated on different areas of your foot.
Should I wear rockshoes with socks?
This is personal choice. Many climbers prefer to wear them without to increase sensitivity, particularly on higher grades or indoors. However, buying a pair of shoes fitted over a thin sock will not only save your boots from getting stinky but also offer greater warmth if you are multi-pitch climbing outside. If you are climbing a multi-pitch route somewhere hot, then wearing the same shoes without socks will allow extra space to accommodate your feet as they swell. If you are climbing at altitude or in the cold then it is imperative that your rockshoes are not restrictive to circulation.
What should I look for as a beginner?
It’s very easy to think that they rockshoe styles worn by professional climbers are the best and for that reason they’ll be the right ones for you. Wrong. To concentrate on good footwork as you learn to climb, your shoes need to be comfy and supportive, allowing your foot muscles to develop and therefore reducing fatigue and injury. Choose Flatter Shoes to Begin with. The words “Comfort”, “Durability” and “All-Day Performance” are key. A stiffer shoe means lots of support and great edging on smaller holds. Their build and design contours to the natural shape of your foot rather than forcing it into a specific shape meaning you can wear them for longer. Stiffer shoes will also use thicker leathers, synthetic materials and rubber allowing for the increased wear and tear as you learn to place your feet with precision.
How should rockshoes fit?
Firstly – let’s start with how they shouldn’t fit: Rockshoes do not have to be painful to work. If you are a beginner then please, please don’t buy the smallest pair you can stand forcing your feet into. At best; you’ll have to buy another pair when you can’t stand the pain anymore. At worst; you could cause problems like blisters, callouses or bunions. If you are experienced and require your toes to be held in a dynamic position for balancing on invisibly small holds THAT’S when you want to consider tear inducingly tight footwear.
As we mentioned earlier; rock shoes are close fitting and made very differently to normal shoes so be flexible on size. We stock shoes in UK and European half sizes so you can get the fit just right. Keep in mind that a given size from one brand will fit differently than the same size in another, sometimes even the same size within the brand can be different. This is because all shoes are made around a last to give it a particular fit depending what it is designed for, so if you found you didn’t get on with a particular brand before, don’t be afraid to try a different style.
Avoid shoes that have dead space between your toes and the inside of the shoe since the shoe will not stay rigid when you place your toes on a foothold and could roll off. Make sure your toes are flat or comfortably curved and that your toe knuckles aren't bunched painfully against the top of the shoe. Your heel should have a snug fit and when you are standing on your toe, pay attention to the back of the shoe, making sure that it doesn't pinch the bottom of your Achilles tendon.
Once you have amazing footwork and are cruising the grades; softer, snug fitting and therefore more painful rockshoes can be a great help for precision foot placements however, softer rubber will mean they wear out faster.
What is a last and how is it important?
A "last" is the foot-shaped model around which any shoe is built. It gives shoes their instep height and volume, heel and toe dimensions and width. Most rock climbing shoes are slip-lasted, while a handful are board-lasted.
Board-lasted shoes tend to be stiffer than slip-lasted shoes. They sacrifice a bit of sensitivity, but they are usually more comfortable making them great for all-day wear. They offer good support and are great for beginners.
Slip-lasted rock climbing shoes are designed for sensitivity and less stiff than board-lasted shoes. They have little support and require a tight fit. They are great for bouldering and sport climbing once you have built up good foot strength.
The last also determines the shape of the climbing shoe. There are three primary last shapes: flat/neutral, asymmetric/moderate or aggressive/downturned.
What do “neutral”, “moderate” and “aggressive” mean?
These words describe the shape of the rock shoe and give you an indication of comfort, technical design and what type of climbing they are designed for.
Neutral shoes appear flat and offer a relaxed fit for all-day comfort, allowing your toes to lie flat inside the shoes for comfort. Neutral shoes are a great choice for beginner climbers, but they’re also good for experienced climbers who want comfortable, all-day shoes for long multi-pitch climbs.
Moderate shoes can be distinguished by their slightly downturned shape that makes them good for technical climbing. These all-purpose shoes can handle slab routes, crack climbs, long multi-pitch climbs and slightly overhung sport routes.
Aggressive shoes have very downturned toes and lots of heel tension to put your feet in a strong and powerful position for challenging overhanging climbs. They’re the ones on the shelf that look a weird shape! Most aggressive shoes have an asymmetric shape that curves toward the big toe, focusing power over the toe for precise placements on small holds. Due to the snug fit and downturned shape, climbers typically wear aggressive shoes for shorter single-pitch sport climbs and routes at the gym rather than all-day multi-pitch climbs.
What are rockshoes made from?
Shoe uppers can be made from either leather or synthetic fabrics.
Leather shoes (lined and unlined) offer the easiest care and arguably stink less. Be aware that unlined leather shoes can stretch. A lot. Sometimes up to a full size. So, chat with our staff about sizing and what to expect. It’s also worth knowing that all-leather shoes can bleed colour onto your foot which can look weird when you are enjoying a post climb drink in your flip flops. When a leather upper is lined, any stretch is reduced to a half a size or less.
Synthetic shoes don’t stretch much and soften up slightly with use, but there is little give so the way they feel in the shop is pretty much how they are going to feel at the wall or on the crag. Perforated synthetic uppers have a bit more give than solid fabric and don’t forget to ask which styles have liners designed to wick away sweat.
Why are there different types of rubber used on the sole?
The sole or outsole of a rockshoe is the rubber part that touches the rock. The type of rubber and its thickness can affect climbing performance. (Although it didn’t seem to stop Joe Brown and his chums!!)
While all climbing shoes provide good grip, some rubbers are softer and stickier than others. Generally, firmer rubbers provide better edging and support for your foot, while stickier rubbers provide better grip for smearing on slabs. Stickier rubbers are less durable though, so they won’t stand up as well to abrasion. As you buy more technical shoes ask about the properties of the rubbers as some work at their optimum for a climber within a given weight bracket. This is why some male and female shoes of the same style have different types of rubber.
The thickness of the outsole can also affect performance and feel of a shoe. Thicker soles range from about 4 – 5.5mm. They provide good support for edging and are very durable. However, you won’t have the same sensitivity and feel for the rock as with a thinner sole. Thinner soles are usually about 3 – 4mm thick and great for smearing on slab routes.
Shoes with heel cups made from grippier rubber than the sole are ideal for heel hooks. Some are solid and some are soft and some offer a slingshot heel rand (the rubber that wraps around the heel and connects to the midsole) where the foot is pushed forward in the shoe. This positions the toes more powerfully, but also keeps them in a curved-to-crimped position.
How can I make my rockshoes last longer?
You can save your wallet AND the planet by simply looking after your shoes. By far the best method is to have great footwork – did we mention that already? Next up is: Don’t be afraid to clean them! Simply flush with water, brush inside and out with a soft brush, repeat as necessary and then air dry them in the shade. Rockshoes are made with heat activated glue so don’t leave them for hours in the sun and definitely don’t let them live in your car. It can work like an oven in hot weather re-activating the glue possibly causing your shoes to fall apart. Look after the rubber by keeping it clean and when the soles are worn simply send them of to be re-soled. Just search for Llanberis Resoles or Lancashire Sports Repairs who both do a great job.
Top Tips:
Don’t use price as your guide. Chat through the type of climbing you do and what you are planning so that we can help you make the best choice.
If you are planning on using your rockshoes at altitude – size to allow for expansion. Lace up shoes are good for allowing your feet a little extra space. Especially if you are climbing in the cold when blood circulation is critical.
When you try on a lace-up shoe, undo the laces completely and then tighten them accordingly from toe to ankle.
Come into the shop with lots of time to spare so that you can try lots of shoes on to compare. We also have holds for you to try them on so you can see how they feel when you put your weight on your foot.
Click the image to hear our light hearted podcast: Rock-Boots - Trust The Rubber to help choose which shoes are right for you