Buyers Guide to Carabiners
Photo: Cathy Casey
Krabs, Clips, Biners, Connectors …… there are so many names AND there are so many styles – just look at the climbing gear walls in our shops and you’ll see rows and rows of gorgeous shiny carabiners all vying for your climbing pleasure.
An essential piece of kit for all climbers and mountaineers, the humble carabiner has come a long way since the heavy steel oval links used by Joe Brown and his peers with different styles, shapes and strengths for the different roles they perform within a climber’s system. Once you understand the differences, you’ll need to think about the type of climbing you do before choosing which one is right for you. Still not sure? We always have experienced climbers on our staff team who will be more than happy to show you our krabs and discuss how you can add to your collection……
What are the parts of a carabiner?
So, before we kick off with the descriptions we’ll start with some terminology because if you’re new to climbing the hardware can be a bit baffling.
The spine or back bar of the carabiner is the longest edge. It is the strongest part and where you will find lots of really important information like the strength of the carabiner stamped into the metal. There will be three separate strength ratings: Major Axis (along the length with the gate closed = strongest), Minor Axis (Across the width of the carabiner with the gate closed = weakest) and Gate Open Strength (Loaded lengthways with the gate open is considerably weaker than with the gate closed) Also included will be the CE, EN and possibly UKCA marks proving the integrity of the carabiner and that it is suitable for climbing – if they’re not there use the biner for clipping a dog lead. It may not be safe to dangle your precious body from.
The Gate is a spring-loaded bar or wire that allows you to clip rope/slings and can make a massive difference to the weight and durability of the carabiner. A solid gate is ideal for sport climbing with the straight gate reserved for bolts and the bent gate always used to clip the rope to minimise damage. A wire gate saves a LOT of weight and is favoured by trad climbers, mountaineers and alpinists as they do not freeze and are less prone to gate flutter. This phenomenon occurs due to vibrations during a fall, which can lead to the gate being slightly open on impact.
The nose is where the top of the gate locates. The shape of this is critical to safety, ease of clipping and ensuring soft goods do not get snagged. For example gear can get hung up on large gate notches in the nose and cause the carabiner to be loaded in a dangerous position.
What design features should I look out for?
Modern carabiners use a hot forging process to “move” metal to areas requiring more strength. An unbelievable amount of science goes into creating the lightest strongest carabiner for any given shape.
Gate action should be smooth and firm in every carabiner you buy.
Look out for special depressions at the top and bottom of the spine that will help locate tapes and ropes into the strongest location in the event of a fall.
The above, however, are very general features to look out for. Carabiners can fail and it is up to you as a climber to select the right one for the type of climbing you are doing and for the specific job you need it to do in a given situation. That is why there are so many different shapes and locking options…….
Why are there so many different types of carabiners for climbing?
Depending on their job, carabiners can be loaded in different directions, require capacity for bulky knots, may require additional strength in certain position, need a large gate open size etc Each of these factors will decide a carabiners shape.
D - shape: Readily positions load down the strongest axis and is suited to simple loads eg: Connection to devices, attachment to anchors etc.
Oval: A symmetric shape for even loading. Eg: Pulleys.
Pear: High capacity carabiners for connecting multiple or bulky items. Eg: Knots on belays
Wide Opening Carabiner: Large gate open measurement for connecting to wires, cables (Via Ferratta), anchors etc
Another key factor to consider is whether your carabiner needs a locking system as there are many different types to choose from.
Screw: The requires manual locking and checking to ensure your carabiner cannot open. Some may have red markings to warn when they are unlocked.
Triple action autolock: These offer similar security to screwgates, being difficult to accidentally open, with no need to remember to screw them shut. There is a weight penalty and often an increase in price, however, once you are familiar with using them they are a super safe option.
Twistlocks: Beware – The BMC warn these can be opened fairly readily by moving ropes or pressure against the rock and hence should never be used to replace a screwgate. They are most usually used on via ferrata and ropes course lanyards.
These are key options. Different manufacturers offer a wealth of different locking options so be sure to give them a try; one handed, two handed and if you are planning on using them in snowy conditions – with gloves!
Lighter is better – right?
Not always.
The less weight you carry when you climb can certainly be a good thing but whenever you opt for a lower weight there is always a compromise. Superlight carabiners are often smaller which is not always good if you struggle with dexterity in the cold or are using them with gloves. To save wright they are usually made from narrower bar stock which can mean a shorter life span – check the breaking strains too. Narrow carabiners can mean increased rope wear over time.
Is the colour of my carabiner important?
Carabiners that are made from aluminium alloy can be anodised to delay erosion. The anodising process also increases abrasion resistance, reduces friction therefore lowering drag and can also be done in a multitude of colours making rack admin a breeze. Maybe you want to have all of your bent gates the same colour so you know you always clip a certain colour to the rope. Perhaps you are climbing in a group on a multi pitch and want to ensure each climber has their own personal colour of rope and sling on the belay for safety. Or maybe, you just climb better with red krabs. The choice is entirely yours……
How do I check and maintain my carabiners?
To make sure your carabiners last as long as possible (not to mention maintain their strength for as long as possible!) it is important to regularly check and maintain them. Your life may depend on it!
Manufacturer’s instructions are an ideal place to look for information and we have lots of links on our Joe Brown Outdoor Academy but in short:
Inspection:
- check the body, including the inside surfaces and spine for any abrasion, excessive wear, sharp edges, deformation or corrosion. Nicks and burrs can damage slings and ropes.
- Check the rivet and that the gate works smoothly, springing back to a fully closed position with good nose/gate alignment. There should be no “play” in the movement.
- If it is a locking carabiner the gate barrel should go through all motions smoothly and without any gritty/rubbing noises.
Cleaning:
Start by washing in water (max 30°C) with a mild detergent and using a soft bristle brush to remove stubborn grime and dirt. Pay particular attention to the body, hinge, nose, gate (open and closed) and the spring chamber. Rinse with water (max 30°C) and dry-off any excess with a lint free cloth. Air dry thoroughly at room temperature. It is very important to hang the carabiner with the gate opening uppermost, so that any water in the spring chamber is able to drain out.
Maintaining:
Lubricate the hinge, barrel of the gate, and pusher chamber with one or two drops of lubricant (Duck Oil, Super Lube, 3-in-1). Do not use graphite powder nor WD-40. For wire gate carabiners a drop or two of lubricant is simply required at the hinge.
If you are climbing on sea cliffs, then it is extremely important you do this after each use.
Can I recycle my carabiners?
Yes!
Joe Browns and The Climbers Shop are delighted to be a collection point for used carabiners. We pass them back to DMM who split out the steel and aluminium ready to be recycled again and again and again (although possibly not as carabiners)
Top Tips:
If you are planning to use your carabiners in winter conditions or at high altitude – try them with your gloves.
Check out the ergonomics of a carabiner – how does it fit in your hand? Can you operate it one handed? Multiple times?
If you run out of screwgates, sometimes you can use two normal krabs with the gates opposed instead.
Your carabiners should be stored out of direct sunlight or heat, in a well-ventilated space. Don’t store your carabiners in the boot of your car.
Listen to Chris Rowlands from Dmm Climbing talk about what’s involved in making a carabiner as part of our Outdoor Gear Chat Podcast series:
