Buyers Guide to Helmets

Photo: Petzl

A climbing helmet is designed to protect you from more than just rock fall. Type the words “climbing whippers” into a search engine and you won’t have to watch many before you swear never to climb without a helmet ever again!

Fundamentally, to wear a climbing helmet is personal choice. However, your head is THE most important part of your body so to help you protect it, we have gathered lots of information below so you can choose the best helmet for the type of climbing you enjoy……

What are the different construction types of climbing helmet?

In days of old, Joe Brown manufactured his iconic climbing helmets with a shell of fibre glass with a tape cradle. Tested by the German Alpine Club (1968) against 16 different helmets, the Joe Brown helmet was found to be the best but anyone who ever climbed in one can remember how painfully heavy they were. Time and science have moved on, and while traditional (mercifully now lightweight) hardshell/ cradle designs are still available, the technologies involved in modern moulded and hybrid helmets provide a large range of designs to cater for mountaineering and trad climbing where warmth and durability take priority, all the way through to summer sport climbing where ultralightweight and cooling airflow mean you can enjoy your climbs in the sun.

Moulded helmets are super lightweight and constructed with a thin outer shell made of polycarbonate connected to a shock-absorbing EPS core (expanded polystyrene). A polycarbonate shell may protect the EPS core from damage and distributes force over a larger area as the EPS core deforms on impact. Depending on the model, the outer shell may only partially cover certain areas and the design may offer increased ventilation. These styles are not as durable as their hardshell counterparts so can work better for sport climbing or ultra-light alpinism where weight is key.

Hybrid helmet designs combine the advantages of hard shell and moulded technologies. The outer shell may consist of either a robust plastic shell made of acrylonitrile-butadiene-styrene (ABS), composite or polycarbonate. Inside, a foamed core made of EPS (expanded polystyrene) or EPP (expanded polypropylene) provides the best cushioning properties. Hybrid helmets are ideal for a wide range of climbing types.

I can use my ski/bike/water/Rope Access helmet for climbing right?

Generally speaking, no.

The reason there are different helmets for different sports/professions is because they are each tested to withstand specific risks associated with the application they are designed for.

For example: shell testing differs in areas and types of impact, cradle testing differs around risk of strangulation, some categories will consider head coverage, field of vision etc.

There are, however, some helmets that are designed and tested for more than one sport category. This information will be shown on the label. Just ask us about which helmets are tested for Ski-ing and climbing or climbing and cycling.

How are helmets tested?

To gain a CE or UKCA mark allowing them to be legally sold in the UK a climbing helmet must pass UIAA 106 and EN 12492 testing.

Inside your climbing helmet you will see a sticker containing test information. They are classed as Personal Protective Equipment so can only be sold after strict testing to measure how much force the helmet would transmit to your head when subjected to impacts in various locations. The helmet must also resist a sharp object penetrating the top of the shell.

Some specialist climbing brands manufacture to enhanced standards, so their products offer increased protection to a higher level. Look out for Mips; a technology designed to minimise rotational forces on the head during impact. Want to know more? Just ask us and we will be happy to explain more.

Do I need to check my size?

Definitely.

A number of helmet styles come in different sizes which can be easily ascertained by measuring the circumference of your head. What this measurement can’t tell you is how the helmet fits to the shape of your head, this is something dictated by cradle design – you will only be able to feel/see this by trying it on.

Some helmets are designed to fit folk wearing pony-tails or who have larger heads. We haven’t met anyone yet who we can’t fit, so pop into the shop with plenty of time to try on different styles.

What features should I look for?

If you are planning to use your helmet ice climbing, then you may want to check if it has a visor attachment. If you plan on using your helmet mountaineering or winter climbing, then make sure the clips are compatible with your headtorch and/or goggles. Some helmet cradle designs allow for ponytails. Some helmets marked as women’s have a smaller cradle. There are also kids climbing helmets that are rated as cycling helmets too, so make sure you chat with us – we may be able to save you some money.

Why does my helmet have a shelf life?

Climbing helmets are classed as Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) and as such must conform to tests proving they are fit for use.

Even if a climbing helmet isn’t used, materials degrade, and UV can take its toll so a helmet should be retired if it has exceeded its shelf life, even if it hasn’t been used.

How can I tell when my helmet should be retired?

If a visual check of the shell shows impact, damage, cracking, deformation, burns, wear or signs of chemical contamination then it should be retired. On the inside any cracks, deformation or missing parts should also be taken as signals to retire your helmet. Check the cradle, adjustment systems and chin strap separately and if you can see any cuts, tears, burns or deformation then it’s time to get a new one.

Remember: personalizing or marking the helmet must not be done with chemical products. Use water-based adhesives for any marking.

The good news is that if it is only the internal padding of your helmet that is worn (or stinky) then this doesn’t necessarily mean you have to buy a new helmet – you may be able to buy a whole new set of padding as a spare.

How can I recycle my helmet?

Some helmets are now being made using recycled content but due to the number of components, we are yet to find a company that can recycle them.

One of our staff team uses their old helmets as hanging baskets to grow cherry tomatoes. Another uses their as hanging baskets for plants and flowers. Why not fill yours with bee friendly plant seeds and give our pollinators a helping hand while keeping your kit out of landfill? It’s a win/win!

Top Tips:

The best helmet is the most comfortable one that fits your head. If you can’t feel it on, then it is absolutely the right one for you (and you are more likely to wear it!)

Try on as many different styles as you can. If you wear a ponytail when you climb, make sure you try your helmet on with it. If you are planning on wearing a hat underneath – make sure you try your helmet on with it. If you plan on keeping your sandwiches in between the cradle and helmet shell – errr, don’t bring them into the shop.

Wearing a brightly coloured helmet can make you quicker to find in an emergency (and looks great in the pics!)

Take a listen to our Outdoor Gear Chat podcast about helmets where Cathy and Wayne talk with Petzl sponsored athletes and climbing giants; Emma Powell and Neil Gresham