Buyers Guide to Ice Axes

An ice axe is an essential piece of kit to carry in the winter hills and mountains. Its job is to help reduce the chance of slips and trips while crossing snow and ice, provide security on steep ground and to aid the arrest of a fall. However, it can’t do this by itself. There is no point in carrying an ice axe if you have no clue how to use one. Make sure you get proper instruction and lots of practice before relying on your skills out in the winter hills – it might just save your life.

Photo: Kevin Avery, True North Adventure

Do I need an ice axe?

On level ground in the winter, a pair of walking poles can be helpful for stability but if you are planning to venture out onto steep ground in wintry snow and icy conditions then the answer is yes! A footpath that is a doddle in the summer can become treacherous in snow and ice. If you are walking in the winter then your axe can add security when traversing steep ground or, more importantly, mitigate the consequences of a fall.

Why are there so many different types?

Winter hillwalking, winter mountaineering, winter running, ski touring, mixed climbing, ice climbing, dry tooling – there are many different wonderful winter sports and ice axes have come a long way since the traditional long Alpenstocks used by shepherds on snowfields and glaciers in the Alps.

Ice axes are essentially made up of a shaft (handle), a pick (with teeth), an adze (a flat piece of horizontal metal at the back) and a spike at the base for plunging into snow. Traditionally, the adze was used for cutting steps in snow and ice before crampons were invented to make life a whole lot easier!

Longer, straight shafted ice axes are ideal for hill walking, shorter ones for mountaineering with an increased curve in the pick for moving up steeper ground which can be paired with a hammer make for great mountaineering tools. Shorter lightweight tools are ideal for running or ski mountaineering while short, aggressively curved tools are specifically designed for steep rock and ice. Picks can be swapped depending on the type of terrain, or even the type of ice you are climbing on.

What do the different ratings mean?

Take a look on the shaft of your axe and you might see a circle containing either the letter T or the letter B. This information tells you how your ice axe is rated that is; the strength of the shaft and the pick.

B stands for Basic. Basic tools have the minimum necessary strengths for the CE/UKCA/UIAA safety standard that all ice tools are tested to. Basic tools are suitable for glacier travel, ski mountaineering and winter walking where light weight is important.

T stands for Technical. Technical tools have a higher strength pick and shaft making them suitable for technical ice and mixed climbing but also for mountaineering where tools may need to form part of a belay.

There is one other rating that is specific to dry tooling and competition tools only which is PPE Cat2.

On modular technical tools both the shaft and picks are rated separately. This is because a pure water ice pick is generally thinner and therefore weaker than a thicker, more durable pick designed to withstand hitting rock on mixed terrain.

Do I need a curved or a straight shaft?

If you are heading out for a winter walk on gently sloped terrain then a walking axe with a longer straight shaft and gently curved pick for smooth self-arrest will be what to look for. If it is just added stability on slippery ground you are after then walking poles can be a great investment.

Once you move onto steeper terrain then a mountaineering axe with a more curved shaft will allow you to turn the head of the axe and plunge the pick into steeper ground for additional security. Be aware, however, the more aggressive the curve of the pick the more abrupt your self-arrest will be so be sure to practice. (If this isn’t making sense to you then consider booking a course here – we really like our customers alive!) These are ideal for winter hillwalking and summer alpine mountaineering.

General mountaineering axes will be available in shorter shaft lengths and will have more aggressive picks. They are designed for steeper terrain where walking turns into climbing, for example, ridges or an environment where you may need to pull over short steep sections or icy steps. Some may offer grip rests.

Once you get into winter/mixed or ice climbing then a compact, curved tool with a specific handle and grip rest will offer knuckle protection, ease of placement and allows you to work around more featured ice or mixed terrain. Grip rests and trig rests make for secure hand grip and some tools offer movable or retractable versions allowing you to use the same tool on the walk in and out.

For ice cragging and steep mixed climbing; aggressive specialised tools with ergonomic handgrips, reverse curve picks and optional weights allow for precise pick placement. However, their unique shape means they are not designed to be plunged into snow and they have limitations when approaching routes.

If you are unsure which you need then come in and have a chat with us or give us a call.

What length do I need?

As we mentioned at the start, an ice axes’ job is to help reduce the chance of slips and trips while crossing snow and ice so you would expect a longer shaft to be a good thing. However, your axe is also there to aid the arrest of a slip, slide or fall. A shorter shaft makes this easier and therefore a compromise has to be made.

Depending on your height, most people opt for a walking axe 55-65cm in length however, it is worth trying out different lengths while out on a training course or with experienced friends to see which length works best for what you want to do. The reason there is such a wide choice of axes is because they are all made for specific environments so you may need to add to your collection as your goals evolve.

Make sure that the axe fits comfortably in the hand when held with the pick facing backwards. A good sized adze will help when chopping bollards, or digging ledges and bucket seats. (Again, if this isn’t making sense to you then consider booking a course here – we really, really like our customers alive!)

Why are there so many different leash options?

Leashes are designed to secure the ice axe should you drop it. Dropping an ice axe can have serious consequences in any winter environment but there are some situations where climbers choose to go leashless.

There are lots of different styles of leashes to choose from depending on the type of climbing you do. A basic sling leash will attach your wrist to the top of the shaft via the hole in the head. Make sure the wrist loop fits easily over your winter gloves to allow for when you swap hands.

On steeper ground the leash can take some of the weight making gripping the axe less strenuous.

For technical tools there are clipper leashes which stay attached to your wrist but clip on and off the shaft allowing you to place protection.

Elastic lanyards are designed to link the bottom of your axe to your harness for freedom of movement while climbing. This is classed as climbing “leashless” yet still offers security if you do drop a tool.

How do I maintain my ice axe?

Here are some key tips from the BMC. They know a thing or two about gear failure as they have been documenting it for over thirty years……

Winter is a harsh environment - tools can and will break. If your tools are modular, carry a spare pick as these are most at risk of damage or failure. It is important to check critical areas at the start of the winter season. If you are particularly active, you may want to check more regularly, because a tool breaking can be extremely serious midway through a bold winter climb.

Thin fatigue cracks can start to form on picks, initiating from a tooth, and may need a magnifying glass to spot. Check for impact damage to the shaft, especially near the join with the head of the tool. Cracks may grow which may result in the shaft failing when loaded. Sharp picks make a big difference on ice, less so on mixed routes. Use a medium flat file and don’t use power tools, which will ruin the heat treatment.

Always store your axes dry.

Top Tips:

Little rubber gizmo’s are available to protect the tips of your pick and spike from damage, or more importantly, stopping them from poking through your expensive rucksack and clothing.

Practicing how to strap your tools onto your pack while wearing gloves is time well spent.

Did we mention the importance of proper instruction and lots of practice?

British Mountain Guide and Director of The International School of Mountaineering Adrian Nelhams talks through our ice axe range.

Instructors, skills videos and knowledge here

For even more information on how to choose the right ice axe for you take a listen to our podcast where our Director Cathy and serial charity adventurer Wayne are joined by BMG Adrian Nelhams dialing in from Canada:

Click the image to link