Buyers Guide to Tents

We think that any time spent in a tent is time well spent. A quiet camp away from the hassle of modern life can be medicine for the soul but with so many different designs available making sure you buy the right one can quickly give you a tents nervous headache!

Shelter is important. Our large range has been especially selected so that we have a great choice for the lone backpacker right through to the adventurous family and the hardiest of expeditions. Just ask and we will explain the differences so you can camp happily and enjoy your time under the stars…..

Camping with sea kayaks for tent pegs, the Swedish Archipelago. Photo: Paul Casey

How do I decide what size of tent I need?

Well, to start with the question may even be – do I need a tent? If you are a solo camper who loves going out in dry, calm weather maybe a tarp (a single piece of waterproof fabric) is all you need. Perhaps you are travelling through a hot region, where a mosquito net is the only protection you need from the elements. Or maybe a Bivvy Bag is the best option for lightest weight weather protection.

The odds are though, if you are planning to spend nights outside then you will need some protection from the wind and rain. To give an indication of size; tents are described as 1 person, 2 person, 3 etc so you can gauge how many adults can fit inside. There is no industry norm of a “person” so a two person tent from one brand may be a cosier than that of another. Ultra-light models in particular can be really compact. Length is especially important if you are tall and maximum height is critical if you are likely to be spending a lot of time in your tent. Not being able to sit up properly while waiting out a storm is miserable.

If weight and size is an important consideration for backpacking/bike-packing etc then be sure to check packed dimensions too. “Minimal Weight” refers to the fly, inner and poles and is great to use for comparison, however, in reality, you will need to carry pegs, stuff sacks, use guy lines and possibly consider the additional weight of a footprint (groundsheet protector) and gear loft too.

Why are there so many different tent shapes?

Tents fall into four key shapes offering pro’s and con’s depending on what you plan to use them for.

Ridge tents are the traditional, classic shaped tent easy to pitch and quite sturdy. The symmetric or a-symmetric shape provides lots of room but also makes then more sensitive to very high winds.

Dome tents are spacious and easy to pitch, usually with two poles crossing at the apex. They often have two doors and sometimes two vestibules so you don’t have to climb over your tent buddy in the night.

Tunnel tents provide a high space to weight ratio and are very easy to pitch – you can often pre-clip the inner and outer so they go up in one go. Great if you are moving pitch everyday.

Geodesic tents have two or more poles with five or more crossing points (fewer than five and they are classed as semi geodesic and while lighter are not as strong) making them the strongest kind of tent design, ideal for anyone camping in wild weather or heading off on expedition.

In addition to these four are:

Hybrid tents are a mixture of the above designs, making the most of each to create a lightweight, swift erecting tent.

Bell tents are a traditional favourite of families and groups. Perfect for glamping out of a car but definitely not for carrying on your back!

With so many different shapes and sizes available pitching isn’t always straightforward so we’re really happy to pop a tent up in the shop for you to take a look at and offer handy tips like keeping inner zips done up if pitching in a wind.

Do I need a 3,4 or 5 season tent?

First of all the term “season” is used to help give you an idea of how weatherproof and strong a tent is, as opposed to it being suitable for use only in Summer or only in Winter.

3 Season tents are ideal for most typical outdoor adventures and offer great value for money as they are generally made of lighter materials. Most can handle heavy rain and a light dusting of snow but they are not designed to withstand extended periods of bad weather. To reduce weight and to aid venting in warmer weather 3 season tents will often have large mesh panels.

A 4 season tent is designed to keep you safe from severe weather so are built to be stronger, sturdier and with heavier duty materials to withstand snow and high winds. Warmth is also important so expect less mesh panels, or at least ones that have an additional panel to zip shut and keep out the elements. It is vital to ensure that there is plenty of airflow inside your tent to manage moisture and minimise condensation. 4 season tents are often roomier to allow for bulky winter clothing.

5 season tents are designed for expedition use, made to the highest specifications for extreme weather. with unique features such as extended vestibules for equipment and snow flaps to prevent wind and spindrift from blowing up inside. Some are made from single skin breathable fabrics and all are specialist pieces of equipment that require an understanding of moisture and condensation management to be used effectively in extreme weather environments such as high altitude and polar conditions.

We can talk you through all of the pro’s and con’s – once you have an idea what you want to use your tent for just pop in and have a chat, drop us an e-mail or give us a call.

How waterproof will my tent be?

There are a number of factors to look at here. Firstly, it is important to understand that in most tents the groundsheet and the fly sheet are the waterproof parts. The inner tent fabric is not waterproof because that needs to allow moisture to escape and air to flow in usually through mesh panels.

 The hydrostatic head measurement of the groundsheet and fly sheet will give you an idea of how much water the fabrics will keep out under laboratory conditions but the overall construction and how the seams are sealed are also critical factors in how your tent will perform outdoors in bad weather.

Hydrostatic Head is a scientific measurement in mm. A column of water is pressed against the fabric and the height of the water in the column is slowly increased until the water penetrates the fabric. The height of the water just before the water penetrates is the hydrostatic head so for example; a tent fabric stating a hydrostatic head of 1500 mm means it can withstand one and a half metres of water. The higher the number, the more waterproof a fabric will be so you will often find that groundsheets have a higher rating than the flysheet.

However, if this fabric is used on a tent without a door on the flysheet then water will leak into your tent at the front during bad weather due to the design. This is where understanding how to pitch your tent is critical too – this same tent design (which is super light-weight on account of having no door in the flysheet) could give a great nights sleep during a rain storm when pitched with it’s door away from the wind but a miserable wet night awaits those inside if the door is facing the wind driven rain.

Likewise, if your tent is made from that same waterproof fabric but none of the seams are sealed then water is going to pour in through the thousands of small stitching holes.

So, it’s really important to ask about all three of these factors when deciding what to buy – not least because the more waterproof a fabric the less breathable it generally is. There is always a trade off that needs to be made here as a tent needs to breathe, allowing condensation from your breath etc to pass through.

What is the difference between cotton, nylon or polyester tent fabric and which is best?

Cotton is the traditional material for tents and is great if weight is not an issue. When wet the cotton fibres simply absorb the water, expanding and sealing the fabric against rain. Cotton can mould very quickly if stored when wet so you may want to think about the space you have available to dry it.

Nylon and Polyester fabrics are both lightweight and durable synthetic fabrics used for lightweight tents. They are easy to care for, are stretch and abrasion resistant and both naturally hydrophobic, which mean they absorb very little water. However, depending on how you intend using your tent you definitely need to make fabric choice a part of your decision making process:

Compared to polyester, nylon has very good resistance to abrasion, fungi, insects, chemicals, and even mildew. It can be manufactured to a very light weight incorporating rip-stop; which is a reinforcement technique where tear proof threads are woven into the material with regular intervals. Rip-stop ensures that small tears do not spread and can be used with polyester too. Polyester is more heat-resistant and UV resistant than nylon so if you are spending time at altitude then might be a better fabric to go for. It dries faster than nylon and when wet, expands significantly less so there is less sagging when your tent becomes saturated.

Depending on how excited you get about this type of thing (and we REALLY do) the thread count of the fabric, the coating of the fabric, the type of seam sealing, ground sheet construction, guyline fabric etc all play a part in how much your tent will weigh and how well it will perform. Buying a new tent should never be a hasty process……

Why is the colour of my tent important?

Oh it is really important!

Again, it depends how you are using your tent and also if you want to be seen. A green tent is far less obtrusive to the eye in a temperate environment but can be pretty dark and drab if you are kept tent bound in bad weather or are staying in a base camp for a long period of time. Lighter colours are far more cheery being lighter and brighter inside and also “feel” bigger. Brighter coloured tents are far easier to spot in snow, bad or extreme weather when you are returning to camp after a long day.

Poles are poles – right??

No.

Poles provide the structural support for your tent and there is a huge amount of science involved in creating them. All tent poles come in sections strung together with shockcord. These sections can be easily replaced should one become damaged.

Fibre Glass poles are the cheapest but nowhere near as strong as aluminium or carbon poles. Some pole manufacturers like DAC make aluminium poles with a more environmentally friendly anodization process eliminating some of the major toxic chemicals as the anodization liquid is reused. Aluminium poles offer fantastic strength but are generally heavier than carbon poles.

High quality carbon poles have a layered construction making them extremely strong, flexible and the lightest option – however this, inevitably, comes at a price.

Why do I need to buy extra pegs?

Tents are usually sold with the minimum number of pegs you will need. They are also of a standard type as the manufacturer has no idea where you might be pitching your tent in the future.

Before you head out for your first camp make sure you have enough pegs for all of your peg points and guy lines. Then, think about the terrain you will be using your pegs on and add to your collection accordingly…….

We stock over 30 different types of tent peg. Yes really. These range from 2g titanium ultra light beauties to steel nails that can literally be hammered (we sell one especially for the job) into those special kind of groundsheet wrecking gravel/concrete pitches beloved on continental campsites. There are triangular ones, swizzly ones, V/Y/T shaped ones, stakes for camping in snow, shovels for camping on sand – no matter what sort of terrain you will be pitching on we will absolutely have the peg for that!

My tent is wet from the inside – is it leaking?

Probably not. It is likely a build up of condensation.

If you can see your breath when you speak then that moisture will condense/settle on the inside of the tent waiting patiently to pass through the fabric and out into the cosmos. When there is too much, the moisture will start to bead up and run down the inside eventually forming little pools on your groundsheet. If there is more that one of you in a tent, if your tent is full of people and sleeping bags and not a lot of air space, if the weather is wet or damp outside – there will be a lot of condensation build up in your mini tent environment and the only way to fix that is to vent. Ensure your vents are open, use mesh doors instead of all weather ones, keep tent doors open where possible.

Condensation can be really noticeable in the morning so if you wake up and your tent is wet inside – don’t worry it’s probably not leaking. Just be sure to air and dry everything before packing it away.

What is the best way to store and care for my tent?

There is no better to way to make the most of your hard earned money and look after the planet than to ensure your tent lasts as long as possible. Some of our team still use tents that are over 30 years old!

Airing your tent each morning of use, wiping excess mud off the groundsheet, allowing it to dry before packing up and storing sharp pegs as the last item in the top of the bag when you are putting it away are all simple ways to make your tent last longer. Carrying a small repair kit often means you can patch a small tear quickly or splint a pole so that it doesn’t rip the fabric, allowing you to continue on your trip and get a more permanent repair when you get back home.

Once you are home, lay everything out to dry and check it is clean before packing it away. Unrolling it on your first trip of the year only to discover last years mouldy cereal bar stuck in a corner pocket is not a happy experience. If your tent is dry there is no chance for pesky mould and mildew to take hold.

For more great tips check out the Tent knowledge section on our Joe Brown Outdoor Academy website.

Don’t Forget……

Key questions to ask yourself before tent shopping are: Where am I going? When am I going? What terrain will I need to pitch on?

A footprint or groundsheet protector is an excellent investment – moles have no idea how much financial trauma they cause when trying to surface under a brand new tent!

If you are a super tidy tent person and have a tent partner who, er….isn’t; save yourself hours of torment by gifting them a gear loft or tent tidy so you don’t lose valuable life minutes while they ratch around for their stuff.

Remember to place your shockcorded poles together rather than allow them to snap together this reduces fracturing at the ends over time.

A tarp pitched over the front of your tent can make a great gear garage so you have more space inside. It can also double up as an all weather kitchen.

ALWAYS keep your inner doors zipped up while pitching a geodesic tent in a high wind. If it is not pegged down it could go up, up, up and far away…..

For more information on tent testing, pitching and tent care take a read of the knowledge section of our Joe Brown Outdoor Academy below:

Still looking for more tent trivia? Why not take a listen to our Outdoor Gear Chat podcast to learn even more…..