Buyers Guides to Waterproofs
Photo: Keira Booth
Functional waterproof clothing is not fashion clothing, its price is dictated by the massive amount of science involved in keeping you dry in the pouring rain. It really is clothing as equipment and as with all specialist equipment you need to know a bit about how it works to get the best out of it……
Jargon busting
Let’s start at the very beginning because over the years, manufacturers have forgotten that we don’t all speak their language. Frankly, there are also some less technical marketing departments out there that simply talk a load of rubbish.
1) Waterproof vs. water-resistant - In our world, a jacket is only considered “waterproof” when its water resistance is sufficient to keep out driving rain. Though companies disagree on test standards, you can trust that any gear that a major brand designates as “waterproof” can stand up to some serious weather.
2) Waterproof/breathable - This type of performance waterproof clothing keeps rain from getting through to your skin, while also allowing sweat to pass back through to the outside world. If you’re planning any activity that gets limbs and lungs pumping, this is your kind of gear because both precipitation and perspiration can soak you. But beware – some fabrics are more breathable than others!
3) Water-resistant - Also breathable, this is type of clothing that can handle light rain for a brief time—windproof garments, softshell jackets and trousers and some insulated jackets, for example. If precipitation lingers or starts coming down sideways, expect to get wet.
4) Waterproof/nonbreathable – Breathable waterproofs arrived on the scene in the 1980’s. Before that the world was a much sweatier place when it came to walking in the mountains. The very thought still makes us shudder therefore the only waterproof non-breathable garment you will find in our shops is a Survival Poncho.
5) Windproof – These garments will keep out the wind but will get soaked in the rain. Why would you buy one of these? Well, they are far more breathable than any waterproof and in the British climate – are ideal to wear in between blustery showers.
What’s the difference between Hard and Soft Shell?
The short answer to this question is that a hard shell is a waterproof jacket and a soft shell is a windproof that offers some water-resistance.
The term Hardshell comes from the “crispier” feel of a waterproof fabric which generally isn’t insulated so your warmth is provided by items of clothing layered underneath. The term Softshell can generally describe an insulated windproof garment that offers some water-resistance and is made from a softer, stretchier fabric.
Also available are Insulated Shells which are down or synthetic insulated waterproof garments.
So just what is breathability?
Right; lab coats and brainy beards on. Here goes…..
Breathability is all about how efficiently the sweat and condensation that builds up inside your jacket is able to pass through the fabric. The sweat and condensation is referred to as Moisture Vapour and the rate that it is transferred from inside to outside can be measured in a lab as MVTR. Some of the less technical marketing departments mentioned above would have you believe that breathability is another word for comfort but this isn’t true. A jacket can be as breathable as is scientifically possible but if you are wearing incorrect (non-wicking) fabrics underneath or the atmospheric conditions are not optimum then moisture vapour will not be able to transfer efficiently and you will feel wet inside.
Moisture vapour transmission happens in part due to the warm, moist air inside being attracted to the colder, relatively drier air outside.
Therefore, your waterproof garment will keep you dry by keeping the rain out – how you manage the moisture inside your jacket is very much up to you.
What do you mean the outside of my jacket/trousers is not the waterproof part?
That’s right, the coloured fabric on the outside of your jacket has been chosen for its durability. Its role is to protect the waterproof laminate or coating that is bonded onto the back. Depending on the weight and durability of the garment, a laminate may even be sandwiched between the outer coloured fabric and a liner fabric, so it is protected from abrasion on the inside too. This would be a feature to look for if you were looking to use your jacket with a heavy pack.
The outside fabric does have a very important role in addition to durability however, as it aids the breathability of the garment with its Durable Water Repellent (DWR) coating. Quite simply, if you drop water onto the outside of the jacket when it is new the water will bead up and run off in much the same way as if it has landed on a plastic carrier bag. When the coating is worn, is dirty or has been abraded, rain will hit the outer fabric, spread out and stay there causing the fabric to look dark – this is known as “wetting out” and means the moisture vapour trying to escape from inside can’t do so quite as efficiently. A lot of folk can mistake this as leaking but don’t worry – it’s not. The REALLY good news is that a simple tumble dry and/or re-proofing will restore your garment to its previous performance.
Hydrostatic Head tells you how waterproof a garment is, right?
Wrong.
Hydrostatic Head is a laboratory measurement of how waterproof a fabric is. Great for when you are comparing tent groundsheets but think about what happens to the waterproof fabric used in a garment………it is chopped up into pieces to fit around your body. These pieces are linked together with seams. Extra holes are cut for pockets and there are other helpful openings for legs, head and arms to pop out of etc.
The brands we sell will only designate their garment as “waterproof” after rigorous lab and field testing.
In some cases, the fabric manufacturer will insist on additional testing so they may guarantee the garment to keep you dry BUT as we mentioned before; it can only do this by keeping the rain out by design – how you manage the moisture vapour inside your jacket is very much up to you.
What features should I look for?
Oooooh, this is the fun part!
While the waterproof fabric is important, the key to a garment’s performance is its design. Key features will determine weight, how small a garment will pack down in a sack and the quality of the weather protection you can expect.
Zips - From the front opening, to pockets, to pit zips, some may be covered by a storm flap, others may have a rubberised coating. Coated zips (also called laminated) are harder to zip up and down. They also need a cover, often called a zipper hut or zipper garage, to shield the tiny opening at the end of the zipper track. The trend is away from full flaps in order to save weight, though coatings will eventually wear down and be less effective. If you plan on using your jacket in the winter make sure the zips are easy to use with gloves.
Hood design – This is critical in a technical jacket and also very important if you wear glasses. A good hood must move freely as you turn your head and be adjustable to allow for wind direction. Most hoods have brims and adjustments on the sides and in back in order to fine-tune the size of the opening to allow for wearing a hat or a helmet underneath. Jackets without these adjustments are intended for more casual uses.
Vents/Pit Zips - Because even the most breathable rainwear can get overwhelmed during strenuous activity (see breathability above). Pit Zips allow for venting and some mesh lined garments have pockets that can be left open to achieve the same air flow effect.
Adjustment features - In addition to the hood adjusters noted above, jackets often have a drawcord at the bottom hem. Most technical rainwear will have wrist closures that adjust using Velcro. All of these adjustments allow you to create tight closures to keep rain, wind and cold from sneaking into the openings of your jacket. The adjustments can also be loosened to increase overall jacket ventilation.
Pockets – Pockets can add to the weight and bulk of a garment but can also make or break a day out in foul weather. High chest pockets are ideal if you are planning to use your jacket with a pack or climbing harness. Check they are in an easy position for you to reach and unzip with ease.
But I’ve spent all this money on a garment and I still feel wet inside. Why?
As we mentioned above; a jacket can be as breathable as is scientifically possible but if you are wearing incorrect (non-wicking) fabrics underneath or the atmospheric conditions are not optimum then moisture vapour (see Breathability) will not be able to transfer efficiently and you will feel wet inside. Moisture vapour transmission happens in part due to the warm, moist air inside being attracted to the colder, relatively drier air outside. Therefore, your waterproof garment will keep you dry by keeping the rain out – how you manage the moisture inside your jacket is very much up to you.
Alternatively, the coloured outer fabric of your garment aids breathability with it’s Durable Water Repellent (DWR) coating. (See The Outside Is Not The Waterproof Part above) If your jacket is “wetting out” this doesn’t necessarily mean that it’s leaking. Modern DWR treatments need replenishing regularly so simply washing, re-proofing and tumble drying your waterproofs will get them working just as good as new. Especially if they are Gore-Tex. To learn how read our article on “Washing Your Waterproofs”.
What about the environment?
Rather a large topic this. Technical clothing manufacture is not, by its nature particularly brilliant for the environment. Therefore we all need to maintain, repair and use our garments for as long as we possibly can.
There is also a long overdue drive to remove the harmful chemicals that have been traditionally used to stop garments from becoming contaminated with oils, sun lotions, mosquito repellant etc The net result of this means your jacket will “wet out” a lot sooner than a traditional jacket and it will need to be washed and re-proofed a lot more frequently.
Click to read more on New Waterproof Fabrics - What You Need To Know
Click to download an A4 PDF about how to maintain your waterproofs
Top tips to make the right choice….
No matter what your budget; when it comes to waterproofs any breathability is better than none. Walking in the rain while wearing a carrier bag with arms and a hood is definitely not a happy experience.
If you are planning on trying to keep dry in a hot and humid environment then an umbrella can be a worthy investment – it is the ultimate breathable waterproof!
For our changeable climate though, the best garment for you is the one that fits. It can have a gazillion pockets, the most articulated knee design or the very latest in technical features but if you are out on the hill and it is so big it flaps in the wind and drives you to distraction then it was not a good purchase. These days garments are tailored to fit. We are all different shapes and sizes and garment manufacturers go to a LOT of effort to allow for this. Some will even offer a description to guide you in the right direction. For example; if you are looking for a general walking jacket and you wish to wear an insulated jacket underneath from time to time you probably won’t want an “active fit” garment designed for racing snake alpinists who move through the mountains faster than the speed of sound.
Try your garment on with layers, try the zips while wearing gloves, try it on with a pack but above all chat to us about what you should wear underneath and learn how to manage your layers.
Want to learn more about the history of waterproofs? Take a look at the Outdoor Gear Coach website and their book: Keeping Warm and Staying Dry
For a lighthearted insight into the science behind waterproofs take a listen to our Podcast:
