Gran Paradiso National Park, copyright: Karolina Bezaraite

Psyched for a trip to the Dolomites, The Climbers Shop staff team member Karolina headed off to play in the big alpine peaks but what happened when the weather scuppered climbing plans……..

Valle dell’Orco (or Orco Valley) — a place of sleepy Italian villages, playful marmots, and endless granite crags. Originally on our “maybe” list for early autumn, it ended up becoming the perfect backup plan for an alpine rock trip.

We had the rack packed and were ready to go when a last-minute weather check changed everything:

Rain in Salbitschijen.
Unsettled skies in the Dolomites.
Fresh snow on Piz Badile.

Ceresole Reale? ☀️ Sunny!

We threw the Black Diamond #5 and #6 cams and the Orco guidebook into the bag and hit the road.

After a late-night arrival and a few hours of roadside sleep, we rolled into the campsite. Despite being sleep-deprived, our psyche went through the roof the moment we saw how close the crags were—most within walking distance. We pitched the tent and headed straight for a smaller wall to test our jamming technique.

Pic 1: Sergent Crag, copyright Karolina Bezaraite Pic 2: Nautilus pitch 6 , copyright Aled Williams

Bold Slabs & Perfect Cracks

When it comes to granite, it’s usually slab or crack climbing—and Orco has plenty of both.

Slabs: mostly bolted, though sometimes a little too run-out, especially at easier grades.
Cracks: easily protected, as long as you’ve got enough cams. Orco is stacked with crack lines at every grade, making it easy to progress from friendly warm-ups to full-on test pieces.

The beauty of crack climbing is that it often feels safe—the gear is solid, the route-finding straightforward—so it’s easy to push your grade. And push we did. We started on something around HS and quickly found ourselves on E3s and E4s, with a couple of falls along the way. Within days we were covered in cuts and bruises—classic Orco souvenirs. Thankfully, crack gloves saved our skin and let us climb far more than we would have otherwise.

**Route spotlight:**
**Nautilus**
One of the absolute gems was Nautilus, usually climbed in six pitches (though you can extend to eight). Every pitch was worth it, but two stood out:
Pitch 3: An offwidth chimney graded only 4c, but spicy! Unless you bring a giant #8 cam, it’s unprotectable. Not wide enough to back-and-foot, you end up in a strange “froggy” position, shimmying upward until you reach gear and a glorious exit jug.
Pitch 6: The crux—a thin corner crack leading into a gorgeous hand crack.
The bolted belays made descent quick and easy, but with minimal fixed gear on the pitches, it still felt like a proper trad adventure.
*Karolina on Nautilus chimney pitch copyright Aled Williams*

Ai Laghetti — The Campground Vibe

Ai Laghetti Campsite, copyright Karolina Bezaraite Bouldering in Orco, copyright Aled Williams

Our base was the campsite under Sergent, one of the valley’s main crags. The place was buzzing with climbers from all over Europe—many of whom, like us, had turned to Orco as a backup plan.

The vibe? Pure magic. Cozy but spacious enough, with pools full of trout (which you can catch and have cooked for dinner, though we passed). Evenings were filled with the sound of gear clinking, the smell of camp cooking, and golden-hour conversations about dream routes and big days.

Mornings were slow and peaceful—no alpine starts here. Just waiting for the sun to poke out before heading to the crag, sipping on that coffee.

Beyond the Crags:

Even the most stoked climber needs rest days, and Orco has plenty to offer:

Hiking & Wildlife: Trails leading into Gran Paradiso, with chances to spot marmots and ibex.
Scenic Drives: A ride up Colle del Nivolet gives sweeping mountain views and cozy huts for coffee.
Wild Swimming: Crystal-clear rivers and pools throughout the valley.
Bouldering: If you still want to pull hard without roping up, head to Rifugio Le Fonti Minerali to rent pads and grab a bouldering guide.

*Steep cracks on Droide, copyright Karolina Bezaraite*

Some Of Our Favorite Routes

Nautilus (6a) - Sergent

Incastromania (6a) - Sergent
Cochise P2 (6b) - Dado
Apogeo (6a) - Dado
Bianca Parete (6b+) - Dado
Un Gancio per due Sorelle (L) (6b+) - Droide
Un Gancio per two Sorelle (R) (6c+) - Droide
Nicchia delle Torture (6b) - Sergent
Fissure du Panetton (6c+) - Massi del Sergent

and lots and lots are still on the wishlist…

Top Tips for Orco

✔️ Pick up toll road tickets when driving in Italy—skip it and you’ll be fined.

✔️ Avoid late August: Italian holidays mean packed crags and campsites.

✔️ Bring plenty of cams—tripling up on mid-range sizes (green–blue) is worth it.

✔️ Stock up on gas and supplies in bigger towns; there are no gear shops in the valley.

✔️ While it’s a good back-up in the summer - it can get a little too warm for climbing. Might be worth considering an early-mid autumn trip to Orco.

Final Thoughts

Orco Valley may not have been our Plan A, but it turned out to be an absolute treasure. Bold slabs, perfect cracks, a laid-back vibe, and endless routes to come back for—it’s the kind of place that sneaks onto your heart’s “must return” list.