Iconic Climbs - Cenotaph Corner

Image: Cathy Casey

Cenotaph Corner, Dinas Cromlech - E1 5c
First Ascent: Joe Brown and Doug Belshaw, August 24th 1952

Cenotaph Corner. What comes to mind when you hear those two words?

Epic. Tough. Beautiful. Striking. Fear. Desperate.

However you wish to describe it, it’s a route with a strong presence. A presence that looms over the Llanberis Pass with its big open-book corner and a route description that couldn't be any more simpler; “climb the corner”

If only the climbing itself was as simple!

Copyright: Phil Gibson Collection

Arguably one of Joe Browns most famous routes, his first ascent was with fellow Rock & Ice club member Doug Belshaw on 24th August 1952 using four pegs, snaplinks and slings for rock spikes or threading around pebbles wedged into the crack. Conditions were sub-optimal and he describes completing it in torn trousers, wearing socks over this boots due to the moisture oozing out of the crack.

It was a pivotal moment in climbing – one of the last great problems of the Llanberis Pass had been climbed creating possibly THE classic climb of the UK. However, Joe didn’t get to name his new route - the eye catching rock of the Gromlech had already captivated climbers for decades with John Menlove Edwards naming Cenotaph Corner in the 1930’s.

That summer of ‘52 was Joe’s second attempt. The first, in the winter of 1948 saw him reach the niche at 100ft where he was stopped by difficulties. Unfortunately, at this point, he went to call down to his second, Wilf White, forgetting his peg hammer was in his mouth. It slipped out, falling without hitting the vertical wall and hit Wilf a glancing blow to the head. Seeing his second collapsed on the floor, Joe used a snaplink as a pulley and swiftly descended to find Wilf mopping the blood from his head and urging him to climb again. He did so, but facing difficulties again they decided to call it a day.

Joe didn’t mention a grade in his biography The Hard Years. He completed it before the term “Extreme” was coined, leading to the modern numbered extreme grading system. He, along with his contemporaries, spearheaded a rapid increase of climbing standards so that just 9 years later it was being described as a "trade route" in the climbing guides of the day! Coincidentally, it was 1961 when the first female ascent was made by Jo Scarr.

The looming, perfectly formed 90 degree corner offers 120 feet of sustained climbing and still proves a test piece for modern generations of rock climbers steeped in memories, successes and more humbling experiences. Cenotaph Corner remains an iconic trad climb and possibly THE classic trad climb in the UK.

The Corner by Phil Gibson, on permanent display in our Joe Brown Llanberis shop

In 2025, Climber and Artist Phil Gibson celebrated the 50th anniversary of his own first ascent by creating a unique 90 degree artwork of Cenotaph Corner which we are delighted to have on permanent display in our Llanberis shop. It was his first “Extreme” climb, feeling like a “rite of passage”. Well known in the climbing world for his drawings and paintings of mountain cliffs and outcrops Phil’s obsession with climbing began in 1973 as a teenager on Staffordshire gritstone. His interest in mountain art dates back to 1979, when he provided a set of drawings for the BMC's Staffordshire guidebook, and in picking out the detail in the crag architecture he found a real niche going on to provide 220 drawings for 22 climbing guides. He has exhibited widely including The Royal Academy, The Alpine Club, BMC climbing conferences, Kendal and Llanberis Mountain Film Festivals, along with many private gallery shows. The Corner artwork can be purchased directly from Phil at: climbgibo@ntlworld.com